Match of the week

 Beetroot-cured salmon with horseradish and Furmint

Beetroot-cured salmon with horseradish and Furmint

It’s always good to find a new wine that will take on all comers and I think I’ve found it in dry Furmint.

It’s the same grape variety that goes to make Hungary’s luscious sweet wine, Tokaji but is also increasingly used to create attractively mineral whites that you could turn to when you might otherwise drink a dry riesling or a grüner veltliner.

This one, a 2014 Oremus Mandolas (available for £15.59 from thedrinkshop.com) is actually owned by Vega Sicilia and was listed by the glass at Corrigan’s in Mayfair where I had lunch last week.

I had a hunch it would work with my starter of beetroot-cured salmon and horseradish cream and it was absolutely spot on. I’m doing a food and wine matching masterclass at VinCE in Budapest in March and can’t wait to see what else it pairs with. Any thoughts do ping them my way ….

Incidentally the fixed price lunch at Corrigan’s is exceptionally good value at £28 for 2 courses or £34 for three. Our main course was an oxtail and cep pie (which was perfect with a 2009 Rioja from Finca Allende).

Dry German riesling and cured salmon

Dry German riesling and cured salmon

Cured - or marinated - salmon is something you’ll find on a lot of menus these days but what’s the best wine to drink with it?

I hit on a great match at an excellent new pop-up wine bar called Corkage in Bath last week with a bottle of 2013 Weingut Winter Riesling from the Rheinhessen. At 12.5% it’s higher in alcohol than many German rieslings so dry and powerful enough to handle the cure without losing its own crisp citrus and passionfruit character. (It also went well with another starter of crab and egg on toast.)

I liked Corkage which is up the far end of Walcot Street if you’re wondering. It’s got a small but well-chosen selection of wines, some of which they import directly, a short menu of well-priced food, and it's really cosy and friendly. They’re there at the moment for 3 months - hopefully they’ll stay longer.

You can also buy the riesling to take away from Corkage. It's also stocked by Bottle Apostle at £12.60, £13 from the Good Wine Shop and £13.99 from the Oxford Wine Company.

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